Retinol for Beginners: How to Start Without Irritation

What retinoids are

Retinoids are compounds derived from vitamin A. They speed up skin cell turnover, help keep pores clear, and stimulate collagen production in the deeper layer of the skin.

• Retinyl esters and retinol: over the counter, mildest; converted to the active form in the skin.
• Retinal (retinaldehyde): a step stronger, also available without prescription.
• Adapalene: a retinoid designed for acne; over the counter in some countries, prescription in others.
• Tretinoin and tazarotene: prescription-strength, most potent.

How to start

• Choose a low strength, for example 0.1–0.3% retinol.
• Use it at night only, two nights a week for the first two weeks.
• Apply a pea-sized amount for the whole face on completely dry skin.
• Avoid the corners of the nose, mouth and eyes, where skin is thinnest.
• Follow with moisturiser. If you are sensitive, apply moisturiser first ("sandwich" it).
• Increase to every other night, then nightly, only if your skin stays comfortable.

The adjustment period

During the first four to six weeks, mild dryness, flaking and a temporary rise in breakouts ("purging") are common. If skin becomes red, raw or burning, stop for a few days, let it recover with plain moisturiser, then restart at a lower frequency.

Retinoids make skin more sensitive to the sun, so daily sunscreen is essential. Pause them for about a week before waxing, threading or peels on the face.

Who should not use retinoids

Do not use retinoids if you are pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding — azelaic acid and niacinamide are safer alternatives. People with eczema or rosacea should speak to a dermatologist first. Oral isotretinoin is a separate, prescription medicine that requires close medical supervision.