Oily Skin: Why It Happens and a Routine That Controls Shine

What drives oil production

Sebum is produced by sebaceous glands, which are most numerous on the forehead, nose and chin. Their size and activity are set largely by genetics and hormones — particularly androgens — which is why oiliness peaks in the teens and twenties and can fluctuate with the menstrual cycle. Heat and humidity make oil spread and look shinier, so most people look oilier in summer.

Mistakes that make oily skin worse

• Washing too often or with harsh, high-foaming cleansers. Stripped skin often feels tight, becomes irritated and looks oilier later.
• Skipping moisturiser. Oily skin still needs water; a light gel moisturiser helps it stay balanced.
• Alcohol-heavy toners and astringents that sting.
• Heavy oils, butters and thick creams on the face.
• Constantly blotting with fingers, which spreads oil and bacteria.

A simple routine

Morning: gentle gel cleanser, a niacinamide serum if you like, a light oil-free moisturiser, and a matte or gel sunscreen.

Night: cleanse (double-cleanse with a cleansing oil or balm first if you wore heavy sunscreen or makeup), then a salicylic acid product two or three nights a week, and a light moisturiser.

Ingredients that help

• Salicylic acid (BHA): oil-soluble, so it gets inside pores and loosens blackheads.
• Niacinamide: may reduce oil production and improve the look of pores over several weeks.
• Retinoids: regulate cell turnover and help pores stay clear.
• Clay masks: absorb surface oil; use once or twice a week, not daily.

About pores

Pores cannot be permanently shrunk or "closed", and steam or cold water do not open or shut them. They look larger when they are stretched by oil and debris. Keeping them clear with BHA and retinoids, and protecting collagen with sunscreen, makes them appear smaller.