Niacinamide: Benefits, How to Use It and What to Expect

What niacinamide does

• Strengthens the skin barrier by helping skin produce ceramides, so it holds water better.
• Reduces the transfer of pigment to surface skin cells, helping fade dark spots and acne marks.
• May reduce oil production and the look of enlarged pores.
• Has anti-inflammatory effects that can calm redness and mild acne.

Choosing a concentration

Most studies showing benefits used concentrations between 2% and 5%. Higher strengths, such as 10% or more, are widely sold but are not clearly more effective, and are more likely to cause redness, tingling or breakouts in sensitive skin. Starting with 4–5% is a sensible choice for most people.

How to use it

Apply a few drops of serum after cleansing and before moisturiser, once or twice a day. Niacinamide is also often included in moisturisers and sunscreens, which is an easy way to use it. Expect to wait 8 to 12 weeks for visible changes in tone or oiliness.

Combining with other ingredients

Niacinamide combines well with most ingredients, including hyaluronic acid, retinoids (it can reduce retinoid irritation), salicylic acid and sunscreen. The old advice that it cannot be used with vitamin C is based on outdated studies under conditions that do not apply to modern formulas. If your skin stings when you layer them, simply use vitamin C in the morning and niacinamide at night.