Skincare for Men: A No-Nonsense Starting Point

Plenty of men still wash their face with whatever soap is in the bathroom and call it a day. That's fine until you start dealing with razor bumps, oily skin by noon, dark patches from the sun or a beard that itches. The good news is that men's skin doesn't need a complicated routine. It needs a few right things done consistently.

How men's skin is different

On average, men have thicker skin, more collagen and larger, more active oil glands than women, thanks largely to testosterone. That often means oilier skin and bigger-looking pores, but it also means fine lines tend to appear a little later.

The biggest differences, though, usually come from habits: daily shaving, more time outdoors without sunscreen, and harsh products.

The three-step routine

1. Wash with a proper face wash, not body soap. Bar soaps are usually too alkaline and drying for the face. A gentle gel face wash, morning and night, is enough. If you're oily or acne-prone, one with salicylic acid works well.

2. Moisturise. Yes, even oily skin. A light, oil-free gel moisturiser takes ten seconds and stops skin from overreacting after washing and shaving.

3. Sunscreen every morning. This is the step most men skip, and it's the one that prevents the most damage: dark spots, uneven tone, leathery texture and skin cancer. Choose a gel or matte sunscreen if you hate the greasy feel. Many moisturisers now come with SPF built in, which turns steps 2 and 3 into one.

That's it. Three products, under two minutes.

Shaving without the bumps

Razor bumps (pseudofolliculitis barbae) happen when shaved hairs curl back into the skin. They're especially common with curly or coarse hair. To reduce them:

• Shave after a warm shower, when hair is soft.
• Use a shaving gel or cream, never just water or soap.
• Shave in the direction of hair growth, not against it.
• Use a sharp blade and rinse it often. Dull blades tug and irritate.
• Don't stretch the skin tight while shaving.
• Skip harsh, alcohol-heavy aftershaves. A soothing moisturiser is better.
• If bumps keep coming, try a trimmer that leaves a little stubble, or a product with salicylic or glycolic acid a few times a week.

Beard care

A beard is skin care too. The skin underneath can get dry, flaky and itchy (often a type of seborrhoeic dermatitis, sometimes called "beardruff"). Wash the beard with a gentle cleanser, condition it, and use a little beard oil or moisturiser on the skin beneath. If flaking persists, a dandruff shampoo with ketoconazole or zinc pyrithione, used on the beard area a couple of times a week, often helps.

Acne after 25

Men can get adult acne, often on the jawline, back and chest. Gym sweat, whey protein supplements, helmets and tight clothing can all contribute. Shower soon after workouts, wash gym clothes after every use, and consider a benzoyl peroxide wash for back acne. It works well, though it can bleach towels.

Dark circles and dull skin

Long work hours, late nights and screens show up under the eyes for men too. A cold compress in the morning, a light eye cream with caffeine, decent sleep and sunscreen around the eye area help more than any expensive "men's energy" face wash.

When to see a dermatologist

• Deep, painful acne or acne that leaves scars
• Razor bumps that are infected or leave dark marks
• Any mole or spot that's new, growing, changing colour or bleeding
• Patches of hair loss in the beard or on the scalp

Good skin care for men isn't about vanity. It's about comfort, fewer problems and protecting your skin for the long run. Start with the basics, give it a month, and see how your skin feels.